So you’re thinking of buying your first custom-made bespoke suit. Welcome to the club! But wait, where do you start? If you’re new to the custom garment scene, there are a few things you should research and decide on before you see a tailor. We’ve put together a short guide of what to have in mind before your appointment, and what your clothier can help you with during your one-on-one meeting.

What’s your budget? (#1) The most important thing you should be thinking about before going to see a tailor is your budget. Knowing how much you can spend will immediately cut down on fabric options (and believe me there are MANY), and how much detail you can get into. Being upfront with your tailor will save you both time and energy.

What’s the occasion? Do you wear a lot of suits and are finally ready to splurge on a bespoke suit? Maybe you’d like something special to wear on your wedding day, or a big event. Tell your tailor what the suit is going to be used for and how you want it to fit into your wardrobe. With this knowledge, your tailor will be able to guide you in choosing the right details to make your dream garment.

Two or three piece? Though this may be determined based on your budget, it’s a good thing to think about. If you live in a warmer area but still liked to dress up, a three piece is a great option to have. You can even have the vest made out of a contrast fabric that can still be worn with or without the suit for even more wear.

Single or double breasted? Both are classic styles, but a double breasted is definitely more of a stand out piece. For example, you can probably wear the same single breasted jacket 3 times a week. Once you’ve worn your double breasted people will notice a repeat outfit.

Things to discuss:

Pocket style? If you’re new to bespoke, you may want your tailor to take the reins regarding these next two details. There are a variety of pocket options and placements for your suit including flap, jetted, patch, slanted, and straight. You can have a chest pocket, coin pocket, double flaps, and many more combinations. Again, your tailor can educate you on which options to go with based on the reason you’re getting a suit. Some styles are more appropriate for certain occasions.

Working buttons or faux? If you already know you want working buttonholes on your sleeves, voice it during your appointment. This is key to mention prior to any work being done on the jacket. Workable buttonholes are sometimes considered a key point on a custom bespoke jacket as the sleeve length needs to be exact. Once buttonholes are opened, it is impossible to shorten them and maintain the original design and proper proportions.

Bonus Tips:

Bring reference/inspiration pictures. If you’re inspired by a celebrity, street style, or Instagram post, email or print the pictures and have them available at your appointment. Pictures always help communicate your ideas in a more effective way. Whether you like the fit, fabric, or overall style, a tailor will be able to translate your ideas into something that looks best on you.

Don’t be afraid to voice your opinion! Even if you’re a novice, don’t be afraid to speak up if you don’t like something. Being honest with your tailor is extremely important as a bespoke garment is an investment. We want you to enjoy your clothing! A true expert will able to understand your concerns and either provide feedback as to why they are recommending certain things, and how to achieve a compromise that satisfies your needs while not sacrificing the overall look.

Things your tailor can help guide you on:

Fabric. After talking with the tailor about your needs, wants, and ideas, the first thing you’ll be focusing on is fabric. In conjunction with an overall style, they’ll begin to show you fabric options that work best for you. The weight of the fabric will be determined by what’s appropriate for your event, the weather and location, and of course your budget. Next, they will guide you on the right color to compliment your skin tone, hair and eye color. If you’re wanting a patterned fabric, a tailor can help chose the correct scale that looks best on your body type.

Lapel. Though the options are limited (notch, peak, or shawl), choosing the right one can be best determined by tailor. Other things they will take into consideration is the width and how high the gorge is placed.

Overall suit style. Figuring out your most flattering overall bespoke suit style should be decided on by your tailor. Most clothiers will have visuals of finished options to make this process easier, and then you can discuss the smaller details once this is chosen.

Lining style and color. Did you know that there is more than one way to line a jacket? You may have made a decision on this before your appointment, but your tailor can offer you full, half, or unlined options and explain which one is best for your garment. You can also choose what color the lining will be and whether or not you want it to match or contrast with your outer fabric.

Final details. Finally, if you still hadn’t decided on a few of the custom suit particulars before you visited your tailor, ask for their opinion! The tailor should have your best interest in mind and be willing to discuss details more thoroughly. Their goal should be to help you translate your idea into something that is flattering for you.

After all the details are chosen and measurements are taken, it’s now up to your tailor to use all the ingredients to make the best recipe: your final garment.

But wait, there’s more!

The power of a custom-made bespoke suit is well, customization! If you’re interested in adding things like suspender buttons, inner pockets to fit your particular phone size, tabs on your pants to make them adjustable, and many more details that are often not available on ready-made garments, your tailor can incorporate these. By doing your research or asking your tailor if there are any additional customization features available will only help in making your garment come to life.

Ready to start? Book your one-on-one appointment with Artful Tailoring here.