September 5, 2018 + Menswear, Tailoring, womenswear
So you’re thinking of buying your first custom-made bespoke suit. Welcome to the club! But wait, where do you start? If you’re new to the custom garment scene, there are a few things you should research and decide on before you see a tailor. We’ve put together a short guide of what to have in mind before your appointment, and what your clothier can help you with during your one-on-one meeting.
What’s your budget? (#1) The most important thing you should be thinking about before going to see a tailor is your budget. Knowing how much you can spend will immediately cut down on fabric options (and believe me there are MANY), and how much detail you can get into. Being upfront with your tailor will save you both time and energy.
What’s the occasion? Do you wear a lot of suits and are finally ready to splurge on a bespoke suit? Maybe you’d like something special to wear on your wedding day, or a big event. Tell your tailor what the suit is going to be used for and how you want it to fit into your wardrobe. With this knowledge, your tailor will be able to guide you in choosing the right details to make your dream garment.
Two or three piece? Though this may be determined based on your budget, it’s a good thing to think about. If you live in a warmer area but still liked to dress up, a three piece is a great option to have. You can even have the vest made out of a contrast fabric that can still be worn with or without the suit for even more wear.
Single or double breasted? Both are classic styles, but a double breasted is definitely more of a stand out piece. For example, you can probably wear the same single breasted jacket 3 times a week. Once you’ve worn your double breasted people will notice a repeat outfit.
Things to discuss:
Pocket style? If you’re new to bespoke, you may want your tailor to take the reins regarding these next two details. There are a variety of pocket options and placements for your suit including flap, jetted, patch, slanted, and straight. You can have a chest pocket, coin pocket, double flaps, and many more combinations. Again, your tailor can educate you on which options to go with based on the reason you’re getting a suit. Some styles are more appropriate for certain occasions.
Working buttons or faux? If you already know you want working buttonholes on your sleeves, voice it during your appointment. This is key to mention prior to any work being done on the jacket. Workable buttonholes are sometimes considered a key point on a custom bespoke jacket as the sleeve length needs to be exact. Once buttonholes are opened, it is impossible to shorten them and maintain the original design and proper proportions.
Bonus Tips:
Bring reference/inspiration pictures. If you’re inspired by a celebrity, street style, or Instagram post, email or print the pictures and have them available at your appointment. Pictures always help communicate your ideas in a more effective way. Whether you like the fit, fabric, or overall style, a tailor will be able to translate your ideas into something that looks best on you.
Don’t be afraid to voice your opinion! Even if you’re a novice, don’t be afraid to speak up if you don’t like something. Being honest with your tailor is extremely important as a bespoke garment is an investment. We want you to enjoy your clothing! A true expert will able to understand your concerns and either provide feedback as to why they are recommending certain things, and how to achieve a compromise that satisfies your needs while not sacrificing the overall look.
Things your tailor can help guide you on:
Fabric. After talking with the tailor about your needs, wants, and ideas, the first thing you’ll be focusing on is fabric. In conjunction with an overall style, they’ll begin to show you fabric options that work best for you. The weight of the fabric will be determined by what’s appropriate for your event, the weather and location, and of course your budget. Next, they will guide you on the right color to compliment your skin tone, hair and eye color. If you’re wanting a patterned fabric, a tailor can help chose the correct scale that looks best on your body type.
Lapel. Though the options are limited (notch, peak, or shawl), choosing the right one can be best determined by tailor. Other things they will take into consideration is the width and how high the gorge is placed.
Overall suit style. Figuring out your most flattering overall bespoke suit style should be decided on by your tailor. Most clothiers will have visuals of finished options to make this process easier, and then you can discuss the smaller details once this is chosen.
Lining style and color. Did you know that there is more than one way to line a jacket? You may have made a decision on this before your appointment, but your tailor can offer you full, half, or unlined options and explain which one is best for your garment. You can also choose what color the lining will be and whether or not you want it to match or contrast with your outer fabric.
Final details. Finally, if you still hadn’t decided on a few of the custom suit particulars before you visited your tailor, ask for their opinion! The tailor should have your best interest in mind and be willing to discuss details more thoroughly. Their goal should be to help you translate your idea into something that is flattering for you.
After all the details are chosen and measurements are taken, it’s now up to your tailor to use all the ingredients to make the best recipe: your final garment.
But wait, there’s more!
The power of a custom-made bespoke suit is well, customization! If you’re interested in adding things like suspender buttons, inner pockets to fit your particular phone size, tabs on your pants to make them adjustable, and many more details that are often not available on ready-made garments, your tailor can incorporate these. By doing your research or asking your tailor if there are any additional customization features available will only help in making your garment come to life.
Ready to start? Book your one-on-one appointment with Artful Tailoring here.
Here at Artful Tailoring, our expert staff has over 25 years of experience in alterations, fit, and garment construction. Because of this knowledge, we know the challenges that someone with an athletic build faces when it comes to purchasing a suit. Over the years, we have put our tailoring expertise to the test to develop unique clothing patterns that are different from other retail companies.
Before we go into more detail about our products, it is important to explain how suits are cut, and how they determine their sizing. Manufacturers around the world cut suits based on the chest size. Using industry standards, they use these “averaged” measurements to create each suit.However, as most people are aware, these sizes don’t really fit a majority of shoppers. When it comes to people that have more muscular bodies, these fit issues are extremely apparent. Athletes don’t have a standard body shape, therefore they cannot purchase standard clothing.
When you go to the gym and start working out, you’ll notice your shoulders and chest become disproportionate. After a while, you start to find that garments that once fit your chest are now too tight in the shoulders. The shoulders are really the key area when it comes to finding the right fit. As we explained, mass suit makers don’t focus on this. If you try to buy a suit that does fit your shoulders, you’re going to see that the rest of the jacket does not. This is especially true for athletes that are under 5’8” and over 6’2”. When you go up a size to fit said shoulders, you’re going to see that the sleeves that are too long, the waist is too large, and your jacket hem will fall too low on your body. All of these elements create undesired proportions and costly alterations that are not going to provide you with the best possible final product.
Another part of suiting that is different for athletes is the waist. When your body is in peak shape, the midsection is very trim and you start to get an inverted triangle shape physique. When you buy a suit off the rack, the pants are typically cut with a 6 size difference between the jacket and pant size. For example, if you buy a size 38R jacket, the pants that would be sold with it are a size 32. You can probably already foresee the problem with this…As you go up in jacket size to fit your shoulders, your pant size is also increasing. However, athletes tend to have an even smaller waist size than the standard 6” drop. Most retail stores don’t allow you to purchase a jacket and pant size separately, so you end up with added alterations.
To treat this issue, we have made an exclusive pattern dedicated to athletes. Customers who try on an Artful Tailoring suit will notice an immediate difference; one that will make them feel comfortable and confident. With custom clothing, you can also order the necessary size combinations to fit you-nothing is standard here! Not only will you get a superior fitting garment, but you’ll also be able to show off your personal style by handpicking your fabric, buttons, lining, and other details.
By understanding your challenges, finding the perfect fitting suit makes it easier with Artful Tailoring. For a suit that is as unique as your physique, visit the experts today!
If you’re new to the suit and tie game, or just want to step up your sartorial looks, Artful Tailoring is here to provide you with no-fail suit and tie combinations that you can start putting together today!
Let’s start with the basics: the color chart. Knowing foundational color theory will help you because a tie matching master in no time at all.
Keeping in mind these 6 color schemes will be key in creating the perfect outfit combinations. Typically, most suits and jackets that you’ll own are made up of various neutrals such as black, shades of grey and charcoal, tan, and shades of blue, and even brown. Your suit should be the primary color, and the shirt and tie are considered accents. However, you’ll need to be sure that the tie also goes well with your shirt and pants in case you take off the jacket later.
Colors also convey meaning, so it’s important to know what kind of message you’re trying to send with your outfit. Cooler tones are more visually calming and welcoming, while warm tones pack a bolder punch of energy and excitement to an outfit.
In this post, we’ll be focusing on creating winning looks paired with a classic white or off-white shirts.
The breakdown:
Black Suit– This pairing serves up a stark contrast, so it’s usually reserved for formal events or funerals. We say reserve this suit for those occasions, but add interest with texture and subtle patterns in your tie for a modern take to this classic look. A black suit or tuxedo, white shirt, and an ivory tie is also a great look! Notice the subtle stripe on Daniel Craig’s tie, and the texture on David Beckham’s.
Grey Suit: This is when you can really start to play with textures, patterns, and colors. From light to charcoal, grey is a versatile neutral that goes well with almost anything. It’s welcoming and easy on the eyes, but when paired with a white shirt it can get a little icy. Some of our favorite pairings are deep burgundy or forrest green colored ties with grey suit, but the combinations don’t stop there.
Monochromatic options: This route doesn’t have to be boring. The key to a winning combination is incorporating interest with patterns. If your suit is patterned, keep the shirt and tie simple. Solid suit? Flip it around.
Keeping it cool: This scheme will also work with blue suits (see below). Since grey and blue are both considered “cool”, they pair well with other cool colors like purple, green, and other blues. They all look very different, but in each outfit your eye goes straight to the tie.
Contrasting-Add some warmth by wearing a bolder, contrasting color tie. If your suit has a pattern that has some color to it, choose a tie that matches to bring the whole look together (see far right). Burgundy, orange, and even yellow all pair well with grey. A tip to keep in mind with contrasting (especially yellow and orange) is to find ties that have grey in them.
Navy-You can’t go wrong wearing a navy suit. It’s in our top two of our must-have wardrobe staples for men. Like grey, the pairings are seemingly endless. We break down our favorites down through the same three schemes as we did above.
Monochromatic: Since we’re using a white shirt in our examples, these techincally don’t count as monochromatic, but we’re giving you ideas on how to make a blue suit and a blue tie work. You can achieve everything from bold to corporate office appropriate with this combination, it’s just all depends on your shades and patterns. You’ll notice that the suit and tie pair best when one is lighter and the other darker. This way there is no competition with the viewers eye. Go ahead and mix patterns to make it really interesting (see middle), but just remember to choose one larger print with one smaller.
Keeping it cool: All cool shades, look well, cool. When done right, this can create a fresh, modern, and sophisticated outfit.
Contrasting: Blue and orange are complimentary colors, so warmer shades go well with cool blues. Just like with grey, find ties with blue in them to have a cohesive look, or add a pocket square or lapel pin to pull it all together. Each of these packs energy into a standard blue suit.
Brown/Tan Suit: Brown is a great suit color that you can wear all year long. Darker in the winter, and gradually lightening through spring and finally ending in light tan or cream in the summer, don’t forget too add this color into your wardrobe once you have the basics. You can pair just about any color with this neutral, and soon you’ll want to start changing up the shirt colors to explore more options!
We hope you enjoyed this crash course and that you’ll use some of these tips to start creating your own winning suit and tie outfit combinations! Of course, these are all just starting points for portraying your personal style. Have fun, don’t be afraid to try something new, and remember our staff is always here to provide in-depth style advice at both of our Arizona locations.
Wether you are looking to purchase your first suit or own 5, deciding on the right outfit for an interview is a common struggle for majority of people. For ladies, this task might seem even more difficult trying to sort through the abundant choices that are offered. Artful Tailoring has created this easy to follow guide to find the perfect look to land that interview.
The suit: navy and charcoal are still the best go-to options, and can get even away with a medium grey during warmer months. Look for fitted pieces, but comfort should be key. You don’t want your biceps to bust out of your sleeves or have your pants split the moment you sit down. Have an interview within the business sector? These companies typically like to see a very put-together and traditional look. A classic white button down is always a safe and smart idea. Make sure those shirt cuffs show 1/2″ longer than your jacket to show your attention to detail. Add some interest either with a textured shirt or slightly patterned tie (but nothing too bold).
AT Tip: If you wear a white shirt, your tie should have your suit color in it, and up to two other colors maximum. This keeps the eye focused but still adds interest to your look.
Don’t forget to match your belt with your shoes (and make sure they’re cleaned!). A higher rise sock will cover your raised hem once you’re sitting, so make sure its business appropriate (typically matches the pant color) and hole-free.
If you’re interviewing for a job in the creative field, some of these rules can be bent. You can incorporate some texture in your suit, too. It’s still good to stick to the “two simple, one busy” rule to create a focal point in your outfit. Try to choose a patterned tie that has your shirt and suit color in it to bring everything together. A more colorful sock option can show your artistic personality but still look proper. Is the environment even more casual? You may be able to get away with a contrasting sports coat and khakis, paired with a nice button down sans tie.
Regardless of which option you go with, make sure to check in with a tailor to see if anything needs to be repaired or altered a few days before the interview. You wouldn’t want a missing button to ruin your morning! Once it fits nicely, drop it off at the cleaner: wrinkles say more than you realize. Even if you know the company has a casual dress code of jeans and a T-shirt, it never hurts to put in the extra effort to dress up. It’ll show your interviewer that you care enough about the job and will make a positive impression.
For women, the options for clothing and accessories are seemingly endless. How does one weed out the good from the best? It all starts with your physique. Knowing what types of garments look best on you is the first thing you should understand.
Triangle: Look for pieces that are fitted in the top, and free-flowing in the bottom. A knee length A-line or fuller skirt paired with a fitted button down shirt is one professional option. A conservative dress with the same attributes, paired with a fitted blazer is another great choice for this body shape.
Inverted Triangle: The trick with this shape is to balance out your top and bottom halves. This can be achieved by adding fullness to your bottom through fuller silhouettes (pleated works too!) or via color coordination. By wearing lighter colors on the bottom and darker on top, you’ll trick the eye into thinking the top is smaller, and the opposite for the bottom. Avoid exaggerated elements on your blouses such as collars and sleeves, and stay away from form fitting skirts and pants. A flared, lighter-colored trouser with a navy or black simple fitted blouse will be the perfect match for an interview!
Rectangle: This is the most common body shape among women. For this shape, neither the top nor bottom is bigger than the other. You can create a faux hourglass style by accentuating the top and bottom, and having a fitted waist. Detailing on blouses such as small ruffles or gathering brings the eye to the top. Wearing this with a flared skirt or peplum bottom also attracts the eye to the bottom, creating an equal balance. Belts will be your best friend to cinch in the waist! A ruched, 3/4 sleeve, knee-length dress is fitted in the waist and still adds detail to your top half, making this an ideal option. Pair it with tights if you think it may be too revealing. A belted, peplum top, a nice necklace, and trousers covers all the spots for this shape!
Hourglass: The rules for an hourglass figure are similar to a rectangle, but instead of adding fullness to both, you want everything fitted. Your body is already proportioned, so you don’t need to add anything else! If you’re afraid of appearing “too sexy”, color blocking can be perfect when searching for an interview outfit. Look for dresses that have black side panels to help decrease the appearance of your curves. Add a fitted cardigan and belt to finish off the look. A slightly flared bottom and a bolder necklace can also help draw the attention away from your hips. If you opt for a more fitted skirt or trouser, add some detailing or go with a blousier option for the top to create balance.
Diamond: Also referred to as “pear”. With this body shape, the idea to is draw the eye to the top. Look for blouses that have an empire waist and that are light and allow movement. Belts worn slightly higher than your natural waist are also a great idea. Wrap tops are often a favorite among this body type since they cinch right under the bust, giving a larger appearance. Plunging necklines are also recommended, though make sure you wear a camisole underneath for interviews! You can still wear a fitted bottom, but just as with the Hourglass figure, make sure it’s plain in color and style, and keep all of your focus on the top half. A blazer and A-line dress is also option that is work appropriate and goes well with your body type.
Rounded: The styling goals with this shape are to elongate the waistline and to create the look of a smaller waist to balance out the top and bottom halves. We can achieve this by drawing interest to your neckline and legs, and finding more structured pieces to wear. Wider and “V” cut necklines, empire waist tops, and statement earrings and necklaces are all great things to look for to compliment your upper half. Look for boot cut pant styles and wrap dresses with a slightly flared bottom. Make sure your dress hems only go to the knee length as you’ll want to show some skin to help your legs look longer! Contrary to what you might think, avoid belts or embellishments on your waistline. Accessories are your key investment pieces, but for an interview we suggest to keep things on the simpler side. You don’t want your outfit to speak louder than you do!
In conclusion, keep things simple and clean for an interview. Once you have a better idea of the work environment, you can start letting your personality shine through! Visit a tailor for any last-minute adjustments, and make sure your garments are clean and pressed. Now go out there and land that job!
Now that you’re educated on the types of fabrics available for custom shirts, we wanted to take a deeper dive into the most common choice for dress shirts: cotton. Haven’t read our previous blog post yet? Read it first, here.
Cotton is a natural fiber that grows from cotton plants. It can be knitted or woven, and is sometimes mixed with other types of fibers to create a fabric blend. There are many types of cotton available today. We’ve explained the different varieties below including where they come from, what their traits are, and how they’re ranked amongst each other.
EGYPTIAN & GIZA
People tend to ask for this type of cotton by name, but what really ranks Egyptian as supreme, and what’s the difference between its cotton counterparts? First off, this cotton comes from the country of Egypt where the climate allows for a unique production of long fibers. This can then be turned into thinner fibers for weaving which allows a lightweight touch, but it does not sacrifice its strength as it tends to have a higher thread count. Therefore, Egyptian cotton items tend to last much longer than regular cotton ones (typically 40-50 years). A lot of companies claim to have “Egyptian cotton” products, but be wary of counterfeits.
Giza cotton is a subcategory of Egyptian cotton, but this type is produced in a specific area along the Nile delta. It is known to be the most fertile part of the country and can only produce a limited amount each year. Oftentimes it is hand-harvested and hand-combed, which help keep the long fibers intact. It is considered the strongest cotton, while still retaining an extremely soft touch. If you’re wondering why its usually the most expensive type of cotton, now you know!
PIMA
Another common cotton type is Pima. It is grown in the southern United States. Although its very similar to Egyptian cotton as is too produces a long fiber staple, it comes up slightly short. Pima still creates fabrics that are soft to the touch and very strong. These crops take up to 9 months to grow, which accounts for its higher cost compared to other types.
SUPIMA
Only grown in the US, most commonly in the southern states such as California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Usually items with Supima label are domestically produced and must be sourced through a licensed supply chain. Supima cotton grows extra-long staples (about 1.5″).
UPLAND
Upland cotton accounts for 99% of the cotton grown in the United States (with the other 1% being Pima), and is the primary cotton for most products around the world. Typically produced in (but not limited to) Texas, Georgia, and Mississippi, it grows medium and short-staple fibers.
SEA ISLAND
Grown on the West Indian Sea Islands, there is no guessing where this cotton is from. The isles, like the Nile, also have a unique and perfected climate to flourish in. It has a very uniform texture, high-strength, luster, and the touch of cashmere/silk. You may not have heard of Sea Island since it only account for 0.008% of all cotton produced every year. There are companies that label their cotton “Sea Island quality”, but only those products bearing the West Indies Sea Island Cotton Association labels are authentic.
Which type of cotton is your preferred choice? Let us know in the comments below!
