Now that you’re educated on the types of fabrics available for custom shirts, we wanted to take a deeper dive into the most common choice for dress shirts: cotton. Haven’t read our previous blog post yet? Read it first, here.
Cotton is a natural fiber that grows from cotton plants. It can be knitted or woven, and is sometimes mixed with other types of fibers to create a fabric blend. There are many types of cotton available today. We’ve explained the different varieties below including where they come from, what their traits are, and how they’re ranked amongst each other.
EGYPTIAN & GIZA
People tend to ask for this type of cotton by name, but what really ranks Egyptian as supreme, and what’s the difference between its cotton counterparts? First off, this cotton comes from the country of Egypt where the climate allows for a unique production of long fibers. This can then be turned into thinner fibers for weaving which allows a lightweight touch, but it does not sacrifice its strength as it tends to have a higher thread count. Therefore, Egyptian cotton items tend to last much longer than regular cotton ones (typically 40-50 years). A lot of companies claim to have “Egyptian cotton” products, but be wary of counterfeits.
Giza cotton is a subcategory of Egyptian cotton, but this type is produced in a specific area along the Nile delta. It is known to be the most fertile part of the country and can only produce a limited amount each year. Oftentimes it is hand-harvested and hand-combed, which help keep the long fibers intact. It is considered the strongest cotton, while still retaining an extremely soft touch. If you’re wondering why its usually the most expensive type of cotton, now you know!
PIMA
Another common cotton type is Pima. It is grown in the southern United States. Although its very similar to Egyptian cotton as is too produces a long fiber staple, it comes up slightly short. Pima still creates fabrics that are soft to the touch and very strong. These crops take up to 9 months to grow, which accounts for its higher cost compared to other types.
SUPIMA
Only grown in the US, most commonly in the southern states such as California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Usually items with Supima label are domestically produced and must be sourced through a licensed supply chain. Supima cotton grows extra-long staples (about 1.5″).
UPLAND
Upland cotton accounts for 99% of the cotton grown in the United States (with the other 1% being Pima), and is the primary cotton for most products around the world. Typically produced in (but not limited to) Texas, Georgia, and Mississippi, it grows medium and short-staple fibers.
SEA ISLAND
Grown on the West Indian Sea Islands, there is no guessing where this cotton is from. The isles, like the Nile, also have a unique and perfected climate to flourish in. It has a very uniform texture, high-strength, luster, and the touch of cashmere/silk. You may not have heard of Sea Island since it only account for 0.008% of all cotton produced every year. There are companies that label their cotton “Sea Island quality”, but only those products bearing the West Indies Sea Island Cotton Association labels are authentic.
Which type of cotton is your preferred choice? Let us know in the comments below!
If you walk into any custom shirt clothier, chances are they are bound to have hundreds of fabric options for you to choose from. Where should you begin, and how do you decide which kind of fabric to ultimately use? Though most tailors should educate you throughout the process to help determine which one is best for your wardrobe needs, we’ve created a brief guide to help you be armed with the tools necessary to make an informed decision.
- Broadcloth
2. Poplin (or Popline)
Comparing them in modern times, these two names have the same basic description and are commonly interchangeable. Both are a plain weave (see below) which means it is durable and long-lasting. This is usually the most common type of shirting that you’ll see available.
3. Pinpoint
4. Oxford
5. Basket Weave
These next three fabrics are all related. Pinpoint belongs to the Oxford cotton series, and Oxfords have a basketweave. You’ll see in the picture below that the weft goes over two warp threads. A pinpoint has a finer hand but higher thread count than a traditional Oxford, making it a common choice for mens dress shirts.
A Royal Oxford fabric is a true basketweave, where multiple warp and wefts cross over one another. Typically, this number is between two and four. This results in a visible distinction, and oftentimes multiple colors are used to create it. With basket weaves, the inconsistency in the way they are made makes them a less durable option and can easily be snagged.
6. TWILL
7. GABARDINE
This is another grouping of fabrics. The Twill is the actual weave name, and Gabardine is a variation of a twill. The weave on this type of fabric is a diagonal effect. Because of their secure construction, they are highly durable, although their texture makes cleaning somewhat difficult.
8. LINEN
Linen fabrics are made from flax plants. It is made from a strong, plain weave and has great absorbency. This fabric is also extremely breathable, which is why its favored during the warmer months. Though it has a lot of great qualities, linen in nature wrinkles very easily, and tends to have a more visible texture so it is often reserved for casual shirts.
If you’re interested in purchasing custom shirts, you can schedule your appointment with one of our expert tailors here.
In our next blog post, we’ll be discussing the various types of cottons. Be sure to subscribe to our newsletter to receive our latest sales, new products, and posts!
Modern fashion is all about rehashing style: taking old ideas and making them new. However throughout the years, the polo has managed to hang on. Although it was never really en vogue (aside from the 70’s), this garment is now no longer reserved for the weekend. More lax dress codes in the work place has allowed for an increased freedom of self-expression through your outfits. The polo is one item that is finding itself now being worn mid-week.
See how you can get more wear out of this classic staple below.
But first, where did the polo come from? There are some common misconceptions on the origination of the garment. It first appeared in Manipur, India back during the 19th century. However, in 1926 Jean Rene Lacoste was actually the first to put a brand on it (you may have seen shirts with an alligator on the chest). Being a polo player himself, the invention came out of a need for practicality. In addition to the redesign, he is also credited for introducing pique cotton which is still in production today. “The Tennis Shirt” quickly became popular with golfers and polo players alike. Ralph Lauren did not invent the polo, but he certainly did popularize it and officially christened the garment during the 1970’s.
Now in 2018, thanks to these predecessors in fashion, sports clothes are no longer reserved for athletes. Polos have found their way into mainstream menswear and they don’t seem to be leaving anytime soon. So how can you incorporate it into your outfits?
The main err in pairing up a polo with a more structured outfit such as a suit is the flimsy collar on the shirt. This creates an instantly more casual effect, but with the right combination you can make it work.
Option #1: Clean but casual
You want to look put together, but still feel comfortable in high temps. Tuck your polo into a pair of fitted chinos or even a linen blend pant. The key to elevating the look is the right accessories. A nice watch with a colorful strap, classic belt, and matching loafers all fit the bill of looking put together without overdoing it. You’d also be able to get away with the right pair of sneakers for this look, if the mood strikes.
Option #2: A step up
Need to step it up a notch? Throw on a blazer or sport coat on top of the outfit idea above. Fabrics such as cotton, linen, or silk will work best as they are less structured than traditional wool jackets. We recommend a polo in a neutral color, but keep this rule in mind: if you go light with the shirt, do the opposite for the outerwear (and vice versa). This keeps the look grounded. Always remember no-show socks to maintain the laid-back styling.
Option #3: Let me upgrade you
Depending on your job’s dress code restrictions, this next look may push the traditional envelope. But hey, rules were made to be broken (or at least bent) right? You may have seen an uprising in the “polo with suit” trend thanks to celeb stylists, so we say why not give it a go! A lighter color suit lends itself to being interpreted as more casual right off the bat. Light grey, tan, and even light blue suits are good matches for your polo. Upgrade your look with a nicer link watch, darker brown belt and keep your polo buttoned up (although European styling may have something to say about that last bit). Want to be more adventurous? Tuck in a pocket square and change the belt out for suspenders. Finish off the look with some designer shades or a straw fedora.
You may think polos are thick and heavy, but custom polos from Artful Tailoring are anything but. Our’s are soft and rich, yet breathable with moisture-wicking technology. Place an order today and get styling!
What to Wear to Summer Weddings
With the summer wedding season upon us, you might be dreading having to suit up in the hotter temps for special occasions. Artful Tailoring has put together a guide of outfit ideas that will hopefully ease your prep, and get you excited about donning some new duds.
Colors:
Medium and light blue, and light grey suit colors are still formal appropriate with the right accessories but won’t trap in heat like darker colors would. A tan suit works for more casual dress codes, and is a nice addition to your wardrobe if you already have the basics covered.
Another fresh option would be the powder blue suit (or jacket). This color is actually very versatile. To dress it up, pair it with a nice white button up, a cream or off-white bowtie, and add an extra pinch of class with some cufflinks.
Fabrics:
Seersucker, Cotton, or Linen suit options are alternatives to the traditional wool route. They are all made of natural fibers, so you can ensure that they will be breathable during outdoor activities. However, make sure you know the interior construction of these garments. Look for those that have a half or full canvas interior rather than a fused. You’ll defeat the purpose of buying a natural fabric jacket just to have it be made with synthetic interfacing. Side note: Cotton and Linen naturally tend to wrinkle pretty fast, and the last thing you want is taking a great picture only to be distracted by a wrinkled suit or jacket! If you know you’ll be photographed a lot, we suggest sticking with a lightweight wool.
How to Wear It:
You don’t need to throw on a 3-piece suit in order to look put together. Break up your garment and wear it as separates. This gives you more freedom to mix and match it with heat-friendly pieces, and to try on a new outfit you maybe hadn’t thought to wear before. If the event is more towards the formal side, you can always wear the jacket for the ceremony. After thats over and pictures galore have been snapped, ditch the jacket and throw on a vest for the reception. It’s a lot easier to dance in! Focus on dressing up your look with clean accessories like a nice watch, pocket square, or fun tie. Don’t forget to play with color if the dress code allows!
If you’re looking to purchase a new jacket, try finding half-lined or unlined pieces that will be even more forgiving in the intense heat.
Regardless of which option you go with, make sure to get everything tailored and you’ll look great no matter what!
